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45 pages 1 hour read

Mark Twain

The Innocents Abroad

Nonfiction | Book | Adult | Published in 1869

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Symbols & Motifs

Pilgrimage

The idea of pilgrimage, a journey to a sacred place undertaken as an act of religious devotion, is central to Christianity. Christian thinking traditionally sees human life as a pilgrimage to the afterlife; on a smaller scale, Christian believers have often made journeys to various shrines and holy sites. Twain uses pilgrimage as the symbolic framework of The Innocents Abroad. Although the travelers visit various cultural sites in Europe, the real goal of the trip is the Holy Land and especially Jerusalem, the city where Jesus lived and died. They do many things that pilgrims to the Holy Land traditionally have done, such as walk the Via Dolorosa and wade in the River Jordan. Especially in the latter part of the book, Twain persistently refers to his fellow travelers as “pilgrims,” stressing the religious purpose of the trip.

The word “pilgrim” also resonates with the Pilgrim Fathers, the Protestant settlers who established the New England colonies in the 17th century. Twain is connecting his fellow travelers with the original Americans. But while the original Pilgrims emigrated from Europe to America, Twain’s pilgrims make the opposite movement. The goal of the first Americans was to escape the Old World, while modern-day (of Twain’s time) Americans desire to rediscover the Old World. Twain refers to them in his subtitle as “New Pilgrims” and stresses that they come from the land of “Progress” (i.e., America).

In Christian theology, the city of Jerusalem is a symbol of heaven, the ultimate goal of the pilgrimage of life. Likewise, Jerusalem is the climax and goal of the pilgrimage of The Innocents Abroad. Everything that occurs after Jerusalem, as the pilgrims make their way back home, constitutes the “falling action” of the book as they return to their mundane lives at home to reflect on everything they have seen. 

The Acropolis and Parthenon

Twain responds in a special way to these ancient sites of Athens, which he views bathed in moonlight: This stunning vision compares to the “New Jerusalem” described in the Bible. The moonlight causes every detail of the city of Athens to become as clear as noonday, and this clarity brings to Twain’s mind the glory of the ancient Greek world with its philosophers, statesmen, and heroes. The Acropolis and Parthenon are thus important symbolic steps on the pilgrimage which will culminate in Jerusalem. 

The Holy Sepulcher

Twain treats the Church of the Holy Sepulcher as the culmination of the entire journey, since this is where Jesus’s Crucifixion, burial, and Resurrection took place. It is in a very real sense the symbol of the travelers’ Christian faith. Twain explains that all the places “connected with that tremendous event are ingeniously massed together and covered by one roof” (433). These include the sepulcher (the cave where Jesus was buried) and the places where Jesus appeared to his disciples after his Resurrection. 

However, the church also becomes emblematic of the tawdry and fake atmosphere that Twain finds surrounding many religious sites. He describes the church as gloomy, dark, and “bejeweled and bespangled with flashy ornamentation in execrable taste” (443). He finds that these ornaments distract the mind from the reality of the events that happened there.

Even so, Twain emphasizes the central symbolic importance of the site: “the most sacred locality on earth to millions and millions of men and women and children, the noble and the humble, bond and free” (444). 

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