Eight Hundred Grapes

As Dave outlines in Chapter 28 of Eight Hundred Grapes, the history of wine in California is shorter than that of more established Old World wine countries such as France, Italy, and Spain, and so on. Though the date is uncertain, it is estimated that grapes began to be used for winemaking in California in the mid-19th century. With the Prohibition era (1920-1933) first restraining access to wine, followed by World War II constraining the American economy, local wines in the US gained more appeal than imported brands, as they were cheaper and locally sourced.

California’s wine industry officially took off in the 1960s and 1970s, specifically in Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Both areas benefit from a Mediterranean climate that creates a favorable environment for viticulture. Though a wide variety of white wines are made, chardonnay became the most common white wine in California. Depending on the vineyard, it was often oak-aged, which would give it a trademark toasty or buttery note. On the other hand, their red wines, often cabernet sauvignons and pinot noirs, are known for their bold and fruit-forward flavors as well as a higher alcohol content than colder-climate wines. Over time, companies and local winemakers in the area capitalized on these flavor profiles and cultivated a reputation for wines that espoused an upfront fruity and ripe taste.

When California wines began winning competitions abroad against established household names, the world finally took notice. Surprising everyone during the 1976 Judgement of Paris wine tasting competition, the winners were two California wines: Chateau Montelena chardonnay (1973) won in the white wine category, and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars cabernet sauvignon (1973) won in the red wine category. Interest and investments began pouring into the area. As California became a household name in the wine industry, it also produced a new economic sector: wine tourism. Through successful marketing and the production of premium wines, California sees an estimated 20-24 million wine tourists annually who visit its wineries, tasting rooms, and wine events and festivals.

In the later parts of the 20th century, California winemakers also began incorporating new techniques to improve the quality and growth of their grapes such as canopy management (controlling the way a vine grows), organic and biodynamic farming, and cover cropping (planting crops to cover and protect soil). These techniques are usually more popular in family-owned or local vineyards instead of large-scale operations.

The presence of local winemakers and larger corporations within the area, however, has recently created a dichotomy in the industry and raised some issues concerning the fairness of market competition. Local winemakers usually benefit from a strong tie to their community and often take pains to emphasize sustainable and eco-friendly practices in their vineyards, but are often limited by their resources and left at the mercy of ecological and climate disturbances such as forest fires, draughts, pests, etc. In the wine market, they are often overshadowed by larger companies, such as E. & J. Gallo Winery, Jackson Family Wines, or the Wine Group, who benefit from a more significant market presence, a wider distribution network, and greater financial capital that allows these companies to standardize production. Acquisitions of local vineyards are also now a common habit for larger companies as they diversify their product portfolio to allow for a greater source of revenue and expertise. These acquisitions, however, often come at the cost of a community’s local identity and a homogenization of wine and production styles. As climate change continues to affect the biodiversity of the area, its precipitations, and chances of drought, as well as increasing the likelihood of pests, diseases, and too-high heat, many larger companies have also come to adopt more sustainable practices and invested in research and innovation to try and mitigate the climate impacts on the industry.