By Her Own Design

The narrative returns to Ann’s youth. Miss Lizzie, the governor’s wife, falls in love with Ann’s flowers. She requests that Ann come with Mama and Grandma to design for her, which makes Lee angry. Nevertheless, he reluctantly lets her go.

Ann meets Miss Lizzie, whom she can tell has worry on her face and needs a “recapture” job to get her husband’s attention back. Lizzie tests Ann’s knowledge, and Ann knows of all the latest Paris designs. Lizzie is amazed that Ann makes her own patterns, too.

Mama hurries them to their next job, telling Ann that she has talent and needs to align herself with powerful white people like Miss Lizzie. Mama advises her to set aside more money from her sewing, and Ann agrees. She plans to get back to sewing, not to tailoring for Lee.

Ann has been married to Lee for almost four years by this point. She keeps working with Mama and Grandma on fancy dresses for clients like Miss Lizzie. Ann speaks up to Miss Lizzie; they have regular conversations, though Mama and Grandma admonish Ann afterward since her boldness is a risk. Ann feels that they don’t see her as mature, so she wonders if having a baby would change their minds.

Soon, Ann is about two months pregnant. Grandma and Mama notice, telling her about the joys of motherhood. Mama advises her not to give up on her sewing talent; she says that Ann should go to New York or Paris someday to be a designer.

On July 6, 1941, Ann has a long labor. She’s only about 15 years old and has narrow hips, but Mama and Grandma coach her through. She has a healthy baby boy named Arthur. Her family explains that her insides are torn up from having a baby so young, so Arthur will be her only child.

Ann adores her role as a mother. She dotes on Arthur, who is a very well-behaved boy. Lee doesn’t connect with Arthur and is upset that he no longer has free reign over Ann’s body.

One day, Grandma Georgia has a stroke; she’s left somewhat immobile but lucid. Ann helps take over the sewing work with Mama. She works at Mama’s house during the day and comes home to Lee at night, with Arthur always at her side.

A few weeks after Grandma’s stroke, Ann finds Mama collapsed. She dies suddenly. Ann endures grief, but she stays resilient enough to complete orders of many Christmas and New Year’s gowns. She assures people like Miss Lizzie that she can do it, and she does indeed complete the dresses. Ann vows that she will have her own design shop one day in Mama’s honor.

At 16, Ann moves in with Grandma Georgia to take care of her after her stroke. She turns a part of their house into a tailor’s parlor, where she works with clients. Ann keeps Arthur with her, who comforts Grandma. Since she is away from Lee, she fears that Lee may hit Arthur in anger.

One day, Grandma Georgia dies. Ann misses her but finds comfort in believing that she’s in heaven with Mama. Since Ann no longer has to care for Grandma, Lee moves them to northern Alabama to live near his relatives. His mother, Nanette Cone, is kindhearted. Lee’s family builds them a cabin. Ann continues to sew for clients.

One day at the market, Ann meets Mrs. Josephine Lee. The wealthy woman visiting from Florida loves Ann’s suit and asks for the seamstress. Ann doesn’t want to brag, so she doesn’t admit that it is her own design. Mrs. Lee has five daughters and needs a good seamstress to live with them. Her twin daughters are getting married.

Ann imagines her life working for Mrs. Lee in Tampa. She could be a real artist, designing things for a wealthy family. She could give Arthur a better life. While Nanette loves the idea of working with Mrs. Lee, Lee doesn’t want Ann to sew for anyone but him. He admonishes Ann and rapes her, and she decides to leave him.

Ann and Arthur arrive at Mrs. Lee’s mansion with their belongings. She explains that she was modest when they last spoke but that she is the seamstress of the suit, and Mrs. Lee takes her in. She will pay for Ann’s travel to Florida, and Ann will live in their home as their seamstress.

After traveling, Ann arrives at the Lee family estate in Tampa. She is welcomed by Wilda, the cook, who settles her and Arthur in. Nell, the youngest daughter, comes to the kitchen and plays with little Arthur. Ann likes Nell right away.

When Ann sees her sewing room, she feels like she’s in “heaven” with all the fine fabric and sewing machines. She can’t believe that she found paradise.

A few weeks after sewing for the Lee family, Nanette writes her a letter; Lee has already taken up a new 14-year-old wife. Ann seethes for the poor girl’s future. Ann works on the oldest twin girl’s wedding gowns and trousseau.

One night, Ann overhears the girls talking about a party. Everyone praised Ann’s work, and her dresses will be in the society papers. She is the family’s best kept secret. Ann feels truly happy for the first time since working with Mama.

When Mrs. Lee finds out that Ann sews from ideas in her head without patterns, she is astonished. She suggests that Ann go to design school to take her talents even further. Ann appreciates it, but she couldn’t leave Arthur.

After the twins marry, Ann sews for the rest of the family. Wilda’s 14-year-old niece, Paulina, becomes her apprentice. Ann, Wilda, and Paulina go to a luncheon, where Ann meets Caleb West. He smiles at her, and Ann finds him attractive. Wilda says that he will be a gardener for the Lees soon. Wilda brings up Lee, whom Ann wishes she could divorce, especially since he has taken a new illegal bride.

One day, Mrs. Lee asks Ann about school again. It’s been a year now, and Ann reconsiders. Mrs. Lee wants to pay for all of Ann’s schooling, for which Ann is very grateful. Ann gets accepted at a prestigious design school in New York for a one-year program.

At a church event, Caleb interacts with Ann. He takes the chance to tell her that he is romantically interested in her. Though she’s flattered, she tells Caleb about her leaving for a year. He isn’t deterred, thinking that they can write letters. Ann might stay in touch.

Ann leaves Arthur with Nanette. She sets off for the train, but Lee comes by and harasses her. He is drunk and calls her a disgrace for leaving her family. Ann tells him off and hurries onto the train, fueled by her dream to become a designer.