By Her Own Design

Ann ignores the racism of her classmates and the segregation at school. She focuses on her designs and gets to know garment vendors in New York City. She decorates her desk and classroom with cloth flowers and her designs. The other white girls adore Ann’s work.

Ann is given special privileges to come into the other classroom and teach all the white women how to make her cloth flowers. They appreciate her expertise but never invite her to stay in their room. They also do not acknowledge the fact that she lives in Harlem, the Black neighborhood of New York City, and not with them in their boardinghouse.

Once Mr. Taylor sees Ann’s natural talent and experience, he arranges for her to take tests to get into the more advanced classes sooner. Ann aces the tests and graduates in half the time (six months) with high praise. Because of the school’s racism, Ann will never sell her work or ideas to them.

Ann returns to Alabama to get Arthur from Nanette, who says that he can come back every summer. Lee wasn’t the best with Arthur, but Ann is grateful that Lee divorced her. He put through the papers before she could.

Back in Tampa, Ann is greeted by Caleb. She didn’t write to him, but they have a friendly encounter. They start walking to church and doing other small things together.

In 1919, Mrs. Lee’s son gets married. Seeing them makes Ann long for real love, so she lets Caleb hold her hand and kiss her one day. He is so tender and affectionate that Ann feels truly loved.

The Spanish flu hits, leaving Caleb sick. Ann cares for him and his ill mother, who passes away. A few months later, when he’s finally recovered, Caleb proposes. He wants the best for Ann and Arthur, including her dream of owning a design shop someday. Ann admits that she can’t have more children, but Caleb doesn’t mind; they can adopt. Ann is thankful for being seen, respected, and loved at last.

Though they plan a courthouse wedding, Mrs. Lee wants Ann to have the lavish wedding she deserves. Over time, she convinces Ann and Caleb to have a more glamorous wedding with more guests and to make her own fancy dress. Mrs. Lee will provide funds for their nuptials as a gift. Caleb and Ann are reluctant, but Mrs. Lee asks her son to insist that they have the ceremony on Mrs. Lee’s terms.

Mrs. Lee also has Ann promise that she will continue saving for her shop; she should keep her nest egg separate from Caleb’s name. Ann agrees.

Ann designs her gown with a higher hem in front and lower one in back, a new fashion. She and Caleb have a grand ceremony and reception.

Ann is loved and sexually satisfied for the first time in her life. She adores life with Caleb and Arthur, who starts grade school.

In 1924, Ann is asked to be the Gasparilla festival designer. It includes a parade, floats, and the royalty, who will need ornate outfits. Ann is honored. She gets so preoccupied with work that she forgets to make dinner. Then, after a night out to dinner with Caleb and starting their lovemaking, Ann leaves the bedroom with inspiration. She accidentally sketches the designs for hours, returning to find Caleb fast asleep.

In 1924, 1925, and 1926, Ann designs the Gasparilla festival clothes. Caleb gets used to Ann’s creativity, laughing when she gets ideas and rushes to her sketchbook. Arthur becomes an errand boy for her business. Ann wishes that she had an apprentice since Paulina went to be a hair designer. Caleb thinks that they should adopt a daughter.

Soon, little Nell becomes Gasparilla queen. Ann designs her gown. A few years later, she gets the pleasure of designing Nell’s wedding dress. Mrs. Lee tells her that Mrs. Hutton, of the Post family fortune, noticed her dresses, too, including Nell’s wedding gown. She makes a connection for Ann with Mrs. Hutton. She also believes that Ann should go to New York City again for more opportunities and will gladly fund her. Therefore, in 1928, Ann and her family move to New York City.

They move to Harlem. Mrs. Hutton and other high-society women welcome Ann’s expert designs. She starts by working for wealthy department stores doing alterations and creations.

In 1929, the Great Depression hits. Caleb loses his job, and Ann loses clients. Since she designs for the elite members of society, they can still make ends meet. In 1933, the downturned economy works in Ann’s favor; she buys a shop for cheap. This same year, Arthur goes off to a top Black college not far away.

Caleb and Ann decide to adopt an orphan girl named Ruth Ann, who is six years old, through their church. Ann wonders if they adopted her to keep their marriage going but aren’t admitting it.

In 1940, Ann finds Caleb cheating on her. Caleb defends himself by saying that they haven’t spent time together in so long; she’s always working at the shop, and they’re not intimate anymore. Ann works hard to keep their family together and financially stable, but Caleb says that the shop was her dream, not his. They get divorced soon after.

Sallie moves up to New York City with Ann because she wants a new adventure. Caleb moves back to the South, so Ann is grateful to have Sallie and Ruth.

Sallie loves her kids and grandkids, but she’s thrilled to return to sewing. She and Ann work hard every day. Since divorcing Caleb, Ann decides to keep her real name as her designer identity: Ann Cole Lowe.

When World War II begins, Arthur enlists, and Ann fears for his life. He wants to marry his sweetheart, Cora, before he leaves. Ann wants to be a part of their wedding, but Cora wants real flowers and her own dress, not designed by Ann. Cora and Ann don’t get along very well, though Cora is perfect for Arthur.

Ann works with other labels during the war for more income. In 1942, she meets Mrs. Bouvier, a rich woman and mother of Jacqueline and Lee. While Lee is spoiled, Jacqueline is reserved and regal. Ann designs Mrs. Bouvier’s wedding dress for her wedding to her second husband, the wealthy Mr. Auchincloss. Someday, Jacqueline will be the biggest commission of Ann’s life.

The scarcity of materials during wartime forces Ann to close her shop. Ann, Sallie, and Ruth move in with Cora and her new baby, Audrey, to save money. Ann works for the label Sonia Gowns for Saks Fifth Avenue.

Arthur returns home from war, and Ann and her family move back to Harlem. In 1946, Ruth graduates from high school and will soon attend college.

One day, Sonia tells Ann that they have a special client coming. Olivia de Havilland, a famous actress, comes to Ann for her Academy Award dress. Olivia loves Ann’s flowers.

Sonia later insists that Ann should go to Paris for the fashion shows. She can go as a reporter for a Black newspaper and get inspired. The paper will pay for her travel. Ann agrees.

In Paris, Ann enjoys the fashion shows and feels inspired. She meets famous people like Christian Dior and spends time with Olivia. After the trip, Olivia wins the Academy Award, but she doesn’t mention Ann’s name as the designer of her dress even though everyone praises it. Arthur thinks that Ann needs her own shop again and to be credited by name. They lament the fact that racism is still an issue.

Mrs. Auchincloss (formerly Bouvier) comes in to commission Jacqueline’s debutante dress. From their ideas, Ann sketches her white gown. Jacqueline asks for more flowers on the waist; Ann appreciates that Jacqueline has a keen eye for fashion.

After she comes out, Jacqueline is announced as Debutante of the Year. Despite all the photos of her gown, she doesn’t mention Ann as her designer.